I’m just chilling out in this beautiful cabana I’ve just happened to be offered. The pool is right below me and the beach is out in front. The swells were amazing this morning. I was up at 7 am getting pounded by waves. I’m not the best surfer, but I’m still out there getting in front of waves, nosediving and getting put through the washing machine. And for me, being out there is what makes it fun. 

Ever since my very first experience surfing in Cape Cod, I have always had a passion for it. Cap Cod in summertime made it pretty magical. It was an adventure. I spent my 22nd birthday on a surf trip around Rhode Island. And  I was sung Happy Birthday in a wet suit near the Wishing Well surf spot with a donut and a piece of wax wood for a candle.

The ocean is an irresistible body to me. I could never be close enough to it. I suppose surfing was a reason to be in the ocean for hours at a time. It’s a bonding experience where you go out there with a group of people, and it’s all about the high fives when you nail a wave and the group jokes and empathy as you get tossed around by a particularly large swell. It’s one of the most serene places to lay down on the board in the break waiting for the next round of swells. 

Yesterday was my first time back in the surf in 6 months. When I ended up on my own I decided I should definitely spend my time surfing. People travel far and wide for the world class surfing on this particular island of Bali. And I didn’t want to waste an opportunity. So, I met some local surfers and tagged along for their daily ritual of morning and evening surfing. I found it’s also a way to find the good breaks and they usually have an extra board to lend out. Despite everyone being a short boarder on this island, I got lucky when Ketut just happened to own a 7’5”. 

I spent the first half hour getting my surf legs back. Then I just got pounded by waves for the rest of the time. I caught a couple good ones and when I surfaced from the water after the first caught wave I gave a big whoop! and the little balinese kids who were hanging five whooped me back. It took me a second to realize they were whooping because my bathing suit had unfortunately re-adjusted itself, not because they were celebrating my victory. I promptly ducked under the next wave.

After a good surf session this morning despite being sore from yesterday evening’s  tossing, we cooked some fresh fish on the beach over a coal fire. The fishermen had gone out last night as all the surfers were coming in. They had arrived just as we had gone out again this morning with a whole batch of just-caught fish.

Another good reason to hang with the locals: You get to keep some amazing memories. Sitting around a fire with a bunch of Balinese at 10 am eating the freshest fish of your life.